Hello curly girls! Today we’re talking about the #1 cause of curly hair struggles — protein/moisture balance. Often, curly girls try so hard to do everything right. They plop, rake, scrunch, and deep condition their curls. But they end up with limp, mushy hair. Or, they may load up on products that are full of protein, trying to give their hair more body and structure. They’re puzzled when their curls get brittle, dry, and frizzy. What should a curly girl do when her hair starts acting weird? First, she should ask herself if her hair has the right balance of protein and moisture. Having too much of either one will cause issues. In this post, we’ll explore both the symptoms and causes of moisture overload and protein overload. And I’ll show you how to fix them.
Read on for your guide to protein/moisture balance for curly hair.
A Simple Test for Protein/Moisture Balance
To find out if your hair is imbalanced, you can do a simple elasticity test. Pull on a strand of hair that is still attached to your head for a few seconds, and then release it. If it snaps quickly without stretching, you may have protein overload. But, if it stretches a lot before snapping, or just pulls out from the root, you may have over-moisturized curls. Healthy, balanced hair will stretch a bit and then bounce back to its original shape when you release it.
Signs of Moisture Overload
First, how can you tell if your curls are in moisture overload? Here are the classic symptoms that your hair has too much of a good thing.
- Looser curl pattern than usual
- Lack of definition even when using strong hold gels
- Stringy, limp hair with little volume
- Hygral fatigue
- A lot of wet frizz after rinsing out conditioner
- Hair that always feels moisturized, even days after washing
What Causes Moisture Overload?
Moisture overload can be caused by washing and conditioning your hair too often. Curly hair needs to rest for a couple days between washes, or it can get over-moisturized. You can also overdo it by sleeping with deep conditioner, with wet hair, or with your curls wet plopped.
Or, your curls might be over-moisturized if you use too many products with rich oils, butters, and moisturizing ingredients. If none of your products contain protein, your hair can get imbalanced pretty quickly. Too much of a good thing isn’t healthy for curls!
If you continue over-moisturizing your hair for an extended period, it can actually go into hygral fatigue. This state will have all of the same symptoms, but more severe ones. Your curls will feel wet, mushy, and soft, whether wet or dry. And your curl pattern may even disappear temporarily or get much less curly. Your hair will feel soft, limp, and frizzy.
How to Fix Moisture Overload for Protein/Moisture Balance
To achieve protein/moisture balance, stop doing deep conditioning treatments and hydrating techniques like the bowl method and wet plopping. Avoid washing or wetting your hair every day. You need to bring balance back by adding protein to your hair.
- Step 1: Clarify.
You’ll need a gentle shampoo that does contain a bit of sulfate to strip away some of that excessive moisture. I like to clarify with the Live Clean Argan Oil Restorative Shampoo. It’s easy to find, affordable, and clarifies without parching my hair. You can also try the Bumble & Bumble Sunday Shampoo, another curly girl favourite.
- Step 2: Stretch out your washes.
I know it’s hard to go longer between washes when your curls are over-moisturized. But washing too often can actually make the situation worse. If your curls are in moisture overload, cut down on moisturizing products. Use only a cleanser, conditioner, and gel or mousse, and rinse out the conditioner completely.
And you should a t-shirt or microfiber towel to squeeze as much water as possible out of your curls (either before or after adding gel). Then, diffuse until dry to get all the water out of your hair. This will prevent your curls from absorbing too much moisture.
- Step 3: Do a protein treatment.
To balance all that moisture, your curls need more protein. You’ve got a couple options here:
- You can use a commercial protein treatment like the Hairfinity Strengthening Amino Masque or the Curls Blueberry Bliss Reparative Hair Mask.
- You can do a rice water rinse.
- You can do a gelatin treatment.
After applying the protein treatment, let it harden into a cast on your curls. Avoid touching it while it is drying as this can damage your already-fragile curls. When it’s fully dry, gently rinse it out with warm water. Follow up with a good deep conditioning treatment or regular conditioner to balance your hair.
- Step 4: Analyze your products.
Take a look at the hair products you’re using on a regular basis (and your almost-empty bottles). Do any of them contain protein near the top of the ingredient list? Or are they protein-free?
Here are some examples of common proteins that are found in hair products.
- Hydrolyzed wheat protein
- Hydrolyzed silk protein
- Hydrolyzed keratin or keratin
- Hydrolyzed oat flour
- Hydrolyzed collagen
- Hydrolyzed soy protein
- Silk amino acids
- Jojoba protein
- Hydrolyzed casein
To balance your curls, you should have at least some products with protein and salts in them. Bounce Curl and Innersense Organic Beauty both have products with high quality proteins. And the Jessicurl line of gels contain salts that will help re-calibrate your curls. My personal favorite is the Spiralicious Gel.
Or, if you are on a budget and can’t afford to try something new, start doing a rice water rinse every 1-2 weeks. This will provide the amazing protein inositol to your curls and strengthen their structure.
Is Protein Good for All Hair Types?
Because our hair is made of a protein called keratin, it is something that our hair needs to be at its best. You may have heard that low porosity hair doesn’t respond well to protein. But this is actually not true!
All curly hair—no matter what its curl or porosity type—needs some protein. But not everyone’s hair responds the same way to the same products. Your hair may soak up protein from shampoos or conditioners. Or it may absorb protein better from styling products and protein treatments. You need to experiment to find out what your hair likes best.
Signs of Protein Overload
On the opposite end of the spectrum, you may suspect that your hair is suffering from protein overload. Here are the most common symptoms of too much protein in your curls.
- Brittle curls that break easily
- Dry frizz that just can’t be tamed
- Hair that feels dry no matter how much your moisturize it
- Excessive shedding or breakage
- Easily tangled hair
- Rough-feeling strands
What Causes Protein Overload?
Protein overload can happen when you use too many protein-containing products on your hair. Curls need a balance of moisture and protein, and going too far in either direction is unhealthy. If you live in an area with hard water, and you’re not clarifying regularly, you may also have buildup of minerals on your curls. You can also go into protein overload by using too many protein or gelatin treatments. With curly hair (just as in life), moderation is key.
How to Fix Protein Overload and Achieve Protein/Moisture Balance
With the right approach, your hair can quickly get back to a healthy protein/moisture balance. Here’s what you need to do first.
- Step 1: Clarify your curls.
To remove any buildup of products or minerals that could be blocking moisture, you need to clarify. As stated above, use a gentle shampoo that contains a small amount of sulfates. I like to clarify with the Live Clean Argan Oil Restorative Shampoo. It’s easy to find, affordable, and clarifies without parching my hair. Or you can also try the Bumble & Bumble Sunday Shampoo, which is a bit more pricy but many curly girls love it.
- Step 2: Read the ingredients.
You’ll probably find that some, if not most, of your products contain protein. To bring your hair back into balance, I recommend switching out a few of your most-used items for protein-free replacements. Shop the Jessicurl and Bouclème lines for protein-free cleansers, conditioners, and styling products.
- Step 3: Add hydrating techniques to your routine.
For maximum hydration, you need to change your techniques. Try squish to condish, the bowl method, plopping, and roping to help your curls absorb maximum moisture.
- Step 4: Deep condition with heat.
Next, start using a deep conditioner 1-2 times a week. Choose a protein-free deep conditioner, and add heat to allow the moisture to soak into your hair. You can either use a thermal heat cap, sit under a hooded dryer, or wrap your head in a bonnet and rotate a blowdryer around it. The key is to warm the treatment so your curls can absorb as much as possible.
My favourite deep conditioner is the Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment, but you can also try the Matrix Biolage Hydrasource Conditioner.
How to Maintain Protein/Moisture Balance
If you want gorgeous curls, learn to be a student of your hair’s protein/moisture balance. Notice when it’s thirsty for more hydration. And pay attention when it starts showing signs of moisture overload. Be intentional about deep conditioning, and add in a protein treatment every month or two.
When your curls are balanced, you will get consistently great results from washdays. If they start behaving strangely, go through the symptoms of moisture and protein overload, and adjust as needed. With time, you’ll be able to know exactly what your hair needs! And you will LOVE the way your curls look.
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